Expedition Iran - uncovering the unknown Iran

I am currently walking solo through the Islamic Republic of Iran, from the Caspian Sea to the Persian Gulf. So far I have trekked along a storm-beaten coast line, through a snow-covered foreboding mountain range and across a hot and dry desert plateau.  I am only now just approaching what could be termed a half-way point in my journey (whether it is or not is difficult to predict both in time and distance: on expedition, you just never know).

The primary purpose of my expedition has been to uncover an Iran that we just do not see in the west, sitting in our comfy living rooms.  Secondary is what is turning into a bloody difficult walk!  I am knackered!  I am not a journalist and nor do I wish to be.  I am an adventurer and, perhaps an explorer, if you are willing to indulge me.

I have struggled throughout this expedition as to which of the above two endeavours should take precedence;  the physical and mental effort of trudging through deep snow and crossing dry mud flats OR talking with Iranians, the locals, being invited to dinner, for tea.

Expedition Iran - new friends along the way

Some days I feel it is all about the struggle, about my fortitude.  Then, other days I tend to be able to put my focus back on where I had originally planned – the people of Iran.  This rift has certainly made things harder.  I have turned down far too many rides in the back of trucks, tractors and family cars for my liking.  All in order to make safe the integrity of my own journey.  As I push on I am still at a loss of which choice is best.  Do I miss out on a potential wonderful interaction with some amazing people for the want of pushing my own limits by another 20 or 30km? I do not know and I believe it is something I will battle with for the rest of the expedition.

Keep following Mark’s journey here, and you can also check out his own website too! We look forward to the next instalment…

Expedition Iran - when the going gets tough...

Expedition Iran – Alborz trekking

From the Caspian Coast and on through the Alborz Mountains, Mark’s en route South!

I am stoked (and perhaps a little relieved) to say that what could be considered the first section of my walk across Iran is now complete. I have travelled on foot from the coastal town of Chalus, heading east to Mahmoud Abad, then taking a direct (well, far from direct in all honesty!) southerly route heading to Tehran. As I wrote in a previous post the stretch along the Caspian Coast, I could only describe as perhaps interesting. Certainly, the section I travelled along could not be described as beautiful. In it’s natural state, for sure, but now thanks to man, not so much. I travelled a long and straight road all the way to the town of Mahmoud Abad where I met and stayed with some great people. From here I passed through Amol, again meeting some fantastic Iranians. Both groups were university students, however they could not be more different. While one group preferred to listen to traditional Kordestan music, the others would much prefer to rock out to Linkin Park. Wolf whistling and propositioning their female counterparts in the street came pretty natural to these boys. Somehow I could not see the guys in Amol behaving in the same manner. They were much more reserved and definitely more religious. Their unifying trait was an overwhelming hospitality towards a complete stranger and this has been true for every single person I have met on the journey so far. At times this friendliness seems almost surreal.

Expedition Iran – Alborz Mountains

After leaving Amol I began to climb into the Central Alborz mountains, towering snow-covered peaks dominated by the most famous, Damavand. What a sight. This mountain range is amazing. You could get lost in here climbing, skiing, trekking and mountaineering for all of your days and still not cover them all. If you’re thinking of getting into some ski mountaineering then this is the place to go. World class open runs, so close to Tehran, so cheap, so friendly and no crowds of people to get in your way.

After trekking for several days into the Central Alborz, I reached the small village of Reyneh, one of the points of departure for a summit attempt on Damavand. Here, on a cold, snowy evening while searching for a place to stay I met Mr. Hossein, a mountain guide. He is 50 years old and comes from a family of guides, having lived his entire life at the foot of Damavand. He kindly let me stay in the base camp hut: a little empty but nice and warm. He invited me to his house to view photos from his many adventures in the mountains. Eight years ago his brother and nephew died on a winter ascent of Damavand, a revelation into the unpredictable nature of a peak that in summer at least can be a straightforward climb. Full of energy and always laughing, Mr H. told me about his two wives and two houses in the village. He split his time between the two although preferred one over the other. Houses that is, not wives!

From Reyneh I pushed on higher into the mountains following a little-used road passed by only the odd truck. Making the small resort town of Polur some 65km from Tehran, the wheels fell off just a little. Being a mountain range comprised of 4000m+ peaks makes it somewhat difficult for even an animal such as man to go over the top. The answer, of course is to through, which means a whole bunch of tunnels. Not the best to wander through. Now these tunnels are not exactly your Swiss or Austrian mountain variety. They are as rugged and tough as the mountains they pass through. For 30km there are tunnels, the smallest being just 500m long, while the longest is pushing 2km, with just enough room for 2 vehicles to pass through. No emergency exit doors and definitely no extraction fans. Judging by the visibility I reckoned I would fall down flat dead less than halfway through. That is if I had not been cleaned up by a wayward truck before hand.

Why not go round? Over? Good question. Maybe I am not as hard as I would like to think. The ability to complete multiple ascent and descent of a few measly (Ha!!!) 4000m+ peaks in winter should really be within the arsenal of any self-respecting adventurer shouldn’t it? Possibly, but, a couple of things held me back besides. An overwhelming part of this expedition is to discover an Iran hidden from the West and I do not mean its beautiful mountain vistas. Its people and their day to day lives are my real target. Spending a couple of weeks atop mountain peaks, while being quite nice a prospect was not helping in this regard and is not my major aim. Time, as well is a big factor. Soon enough, even now, I must apply for a visa renewal. At best I am looking at 90 unbroken days total for this journey. I gotta get moving. So at the end of all that bluff and excuse making, I hitched a ride through this section, through the tunnels of doom. There, I said it. Happy? I hope so. It was a gut-wrenching decision to have to make and I made it after a good few hours going over my maps and speaking to the locals and Mohammad (my friend, not the Prophet, although I may have done well to ask for his take on the whole thing). I can assure you, I was so upset and felt physically sick as I sat sulking my way through these tunnels, even if the driver of the car was happy to chat and offer me some bloody delicious oranges.

It was a quick ride to the sprawling metropolis and as I jumped out of the car I felt bummed out. What had I done? I headed to Mohammad’s place via the metro where we again pulled out the maps and tried to make a plan. Maybe I could just live with it. Sweep this bit under the carpet. Put it in the too hard basket. As I slept that night I felt sick, my head was spinning. If this was how I had to feel then I had to do something. In the morning, Mohammad said he was keen to go into the mountains for some trekking and to show me some great views of Damavand. I jumped at the chance. I had my shot at redemption. I could head back into the Alborz, do some great walking with Mohammad and then pick up where I left off. I knew that I could do this! So I did!

After a great day so close to Iran’s highest peak, I said goodbye to my friend and departed from Polur en route to Tehran, as I should have done a few days before. It was touch and go with tunnels. I managed to tip-toe around the icy slopes of most, only having to skip through a couple. Reaching the final high pass at 2800m before Tehran I was ecstatic. I knew I was going to do it. One final 2km tunnel stood in my way. How could I get past it? In the end it was so simple. I jumped the guard rail and slid, jumped, tripped my way through half metre deep snow in the valley below, emerging into a ski town complete with massive alpine chalets. This was an 11 hour day of trekking with a 30min sit down. I was knackered! The following day after some very straightforward walking I saw a sign in the distance indicating the mileage to Tehran. What did it say? I did not want to get my hopes up. 35? 30? No, 20km! I was wrapt. I was nearly there. To top it off as the trail I was on disappeared and the busy expressway loomed, can you believe it I chanced upon a brand new motorway not in use! This multi-lane behemoth led all the way to Tehran. Not a car or truck in site. After, just 4 or so hours on this bad boy I had reached Tehran. Finally I had done it. A weight was lifted. I was a happy bloke that evening as I lay on the sofa mattress in Mohammad’s apartment.

Expedition Iran – nearly in Tehran!

So, after a few days in Tehran I am off today to Qom. I would like to say that this section will be so much more direct. So much more straightforward, but I have learnt that making such predictions really just leads to frustration and disappointment. I will get to Qom when I get there (but secretly I hope sometime late next week! Ha!).

I will throw up another post then. Apologies for the lack of news over the last week or so, I promise to try harder.
Read more about Expedition Iran and Mark, by checking out all past Expedition Iran entries (find Expedition Iran in the right had ‘catagories’ section) or by visiting Mark’s website.

Ed Stafford is currently WALKING THE AMAZON. He is an expedition leader and friend, who we’re supporting as much as we can on his epic journey. We’re chuffed to bits that Ed has found the time to write a guest blog for us – good luck with everything Ed, we’re behind you 110%!

The “last great feat of exploration”.

If I see the above line again describing an expedition I might just keel over from sheer exasperation.

From circumnavigations to pole attempts, the amount of people claiming to be doing the “very last” expedition before everything is tamed, manicured and utterly explored is comical.

Unlike many I do still think that men and women who brave the elements to drag themselves and their sleds to the poles are explorers. They are pushing back the boundaries of human achievement with every new record attempted and they deserve to be up there with the famous names of yesteryear for their achievements. They are wondrous and inspiring people, who make me want to leap up from the sofa, throw my TV remote vehemently into the waste bin, and attack all my previously unresolved problems with renewed vigour.

Don’t get me wrong – I’m not talking about those who enter organised races across oceans or over icecaps. These men and women, commendable though they are, do fit better in the more generic category of “adventurer”. I’m talking about people who are slowly chipping away at the boundaries of possibility.

I read recently that due to the fact that ocean rowers don’t meet new people or cultures that they shouldn’t be called “explorers”. What?! Such an anthropogenic stance completely ignores pitting oneself against nature and fighting for one’s very survival. If its never been done before – how can it not be exploratory?

Recently I received a nice support message from Sarah Outen. She was at sea for 124 days and in 2009 became the youngest woman to row solo across any ocean. She conceived, organised and conducted the expedition herself and she succeeded. Is she an explorer? Too bloody right she is.

As long as the human brain is free to imagine and dream there will always be new expeditions, new adventures and new world-firsts to be attempted. Lets stop trying to draw a line under each one to pretend it’s the last. As a race we are not nearly as close to completing all that is possible to achieve on this planet as we think.

Long live exploration and all it embodies.

Ed

After a week in Tehran (capital of Iran and the Middle East’s largest city), at times twiddling my thumbs, walking huge distances up and down Valiasr Street and getting around on the city’s brilliant metro (beats London Underground hands down!) I managed to escape by bus over the Alborz Mountains to the Caspian coast.

I would love to tell you how beautiful the Caspian coast is. Really I would. To paint a picture of this particular area would make you want to travel here immediately for the view. Alas, I cannot. This stretch of the coast is one massive straight highway full of trucks and cars belching their fumes, with shops lining either sides of the road: where one might like to enjoy the views, these are blocked by massive concrete walls and steel gates protecting the giant holiday homes of those fortunate enough to own them. I am sure their view is lovely! Every now and then a single muddy track leads down to the water in between these behemoths for the average citizen to enjoy. Not great.

Expedition Iran – On the Road…

After a big couple of days I was somewhere between Chalus and Mahmoud Abad, the town where I could start to head south. Approaching nightfall I wanted to find a place to camp but was prevented by all these walls. Finally, what luck, a wall had come down where 4 half-built luxury homes stood. I had a nose around. Prime beach front property for me to camp on. There appeared to be a watchman living in one of the houses and to save scaring both myself and him in the middle of the night I decided to wait and see if anyone would turn up. Right as the sun went down he arrived and was happy to have me erect my tent on his lawn. A great campsite even with the sound of trucks rushing by in the night. I even had his 2 guard dogs for my own protection!

So far, Iran has revealed itself to be an amazing country. Its people rival,and even match for friendliness and hospitality,my beloved Peruvians and I still have a way to go. The friends I have made in such a short time are amazing. With the most recent news regarding this whole nuclear debacle and Israel popping it’s head in it breaks my heart and makes me feel physically sick to consider the consequences of missiles raining down on this country. What of my friends Mohammad and Abbas? Mr Mousasvi from the hotel? I cannot even get my head around it!

Right gotta go, the bloke sitting next to me has invited me back to meet his friends and fingers crossed put me up for the night…

Find out more about Mark and Expedition Iran by reading EXPEDITION IRAN: An Introduction, or by checking out Mark’s website

Expedition Taster from Charles Montier on Vimeo.

35 days of arduous trekking, paddling and hauling the boat through 17 sections of rapids and around 9 major waterfalls, made Exploration Guyana (www.explorationguyana.com) an exciting and at times treacherous expedition. Many lessons were learnt the hard way (e.g. don’t lend miners a pair of jungle boots if you want to see them again!) and the going was tough, but the camaraderie I had with my team mates made even the hardest moments enjoyable.

(please click on the awesome image below to enlarge)

A few months after finishing the expedition and returning to the UK, it dawned on me that I strangely missed the hours of toil involved in expedition planning and, furthermore, I felt a strong desire to encourage others to experience the simple joys that come with isolated journeys, especially when accompanied by locals who understand the environment. Work in the expedition industry beckoned. Then came the Explore event at RGS and, as a member of the rainforest panel, I had the opportunity to chat with a variety of experienced and knowledgeable fellow panellists, one of whom was Rob Murray John. We had a good chat and a week later he kindly offered me a place on the Sky2Sea team. So here I am, writing my first blog and feeling a familiar sense of excitement creeping through me once more.

I hope for all those of you who have ever daydreamed about undertaking an expedition that you’ll follow your calling and get out there and do it. And, when you’re ready, why not give S2S a shout, I’m positive we can help you fulfil that dream of yours. Be it learning how to hunt with Macushi tribesman or cycling to Timbuktu, our bespoke expedition service can make these awesome ideas happen. Go for it!

Tell me. What do you know about the Islamic Republic of Iran? Anything? Anyone?

In a few days, after 18 months of planning and preparation, I set out on what will be a most amazing and fascinating journey. Walking solo and lightweight from the northern border of the Islamic Republic of Iran on the Caspian Sea to its southerly border in the Persian Gulf.

Mark Kalch - Expedition Iran

Beginning in the coastal city of Chalus, I cross the Alborz Mountains heading south to Tehran. From here I will continue south-west to Qom, before heading south to Esfahan, through the Zagros Mountains and on to Shiraz before reaching the Persian Gulf at Bushehr.

Iran is one of the most mountainous countries on Earth, and over many weeks I will pass through subtropical rainforest, 5000m+ mountain ranges, plateau and desert on course for the Persian Gulf. Just myself, my pack and a notebook. Nothing more. Will I make it? Maybe, although there is a much better chance that I will not! But, is that not all the more reason to go?

The relationship between Iran and the West has a tendency to polarise opinion which makes for interesting times ahead. I journey with an open mind and heart. I am not a politician or a campaigner. I am an explorer.

The way - Expedition Iran

I do not propose to change the world with my short walk. I am not journeying to raise funds for charity or awareness of climate change. I wish to experience the true Iran. A country of amazing, generous people, not the caricature painted for us by others. I will stay and live amongst its people, explore its diverse geography and experience what was, once upon time, the greatest empire on earth.

Sounds like an interesting expedition huh?

Mark Kalch is an experienced explorer whose determination and thirst for adventure has led him to plan and carry out several expeditions. In the last 12 years he has walked the length of the Omo River in Southern Ethiopia, rafted down the mighty Amazon River from its source in the Peruvian Andes to the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Brazil, run rivers in Southern Africa, trekked in the Andes of Peru, forged trails through dense jungles in East Africa and explored deserted tropical islands off the coast of Australia by sea-kayak.

Mark’s experiences of planning small, unsupported expeditions into the wilderness, far from any help and with only himself and his team to rely on, has given him an incredible insight into successful team dynamics, leadership and risk management.

Best Daze from Mark Kalch on Vimeo.

Immersed in local culture - Expedition Iran

Sky2Sea sponsored Mark to give a public talk at National Geographic in London in October of this year. This talk focused on his recent Amazon expedition (a successful human powered, source to sea journey of the Amazon River):Mark faced acute mountain sickness, dysentery, turbulent whitewater, 30 km wide tidal river waters and being shot at by both the military and narco-terrorists. After the team medic was struck down with a mystery virus and forced to return home, Mark and his other team mate were left to row the remaining 4500km between them, at times rowing 24 hours a day in alternating 6 hour shifts to reach their goal.

Quite a guy!

We’re delighted that Mark will be guest blogging for us during Expedition Iran. Hopefully this has been a good introduction to him and the expedition – get ready for the next blog….coming straight from the field!

You can also follow the journey at www.markkalch.com!

Mark Kalch - explorer, Expedition Iran

….. an RGS ‘Explore’ Conference exclusive.

Brought to you by MD Rob, expedition expert and jungle panellist for 5 years running at ‘Explore’…these are some of his top tips for experiencing tropical forests safely, and stem from questions during the ‘expedition planning and logistics’ workshop if you couldn’t make the RGS conference!

>>Top Tips<<

#1 choose the correct sleeping system

Think carefully about using the 3 in 1 versatile sleeping system of hammock, basha and mozzy net before you automatically jump for the tents: tents can be good if you have open areas, especially in higher altitudes where it’s a bit cooler e.g. in the cloud forest…they’re not so great for sleeping amongst the trees!

#2 Feet

Consider wearing Jungle Boots – they are specifically made for this environment and are designed to stop your feet rotting! Make sure they are genuine and not fake – if you can’t be bothered to wear them in then consider using a lightweight fabric boot with ankle support – avoid Gortex!

However, consider Gortex socks to keep your feet dry at night (after cleaning and powering your feet). They are an absolute dream…trust us, it’s no fun drying your feet out only to have to put them back into wet boots to avoid the creepy crawlies on the night-time jungle floor.

Consider leech socks if you’re going to an area with leeches….and think about taking some Lycra shorts to protect the vitals….

#3 Safety kit

Ensure you are able to carry all your safety kit (aka SOP / Belt kit) items in one bag that can be easily tied around your waist or carried over the shoulder. Always wear and carry your own safety kit!

Your safety kit should always have the basics (NB. this isn’t an exhaustive list and you should always seek detailed advice before you head out): water, water purification method, compass, whistle, fire lighting gear, mini-first aid, torch and knife…this is in case you ever get separated from your main pack – you need to be able to survive, attract attention or find your way back on the minimum of items!

#4 Water Purification

We still favour Iodine as it has been proven to kill known parasites, but you can no longer buy it in the EEC. There are therefore 2 alternatives: biox Aqua Drops or Chlorine tabs.

Iodine is good as it can be used in a first aid, antiseptic capacity and is great for grazes, small cuts and insect bites to help them stop getting infected – a small tincture fits nicely into your belt kit as well.

You can still buy Iodine for water purification in-country if it is available but make sure you buy the correct one for water purification!

The steri pen is ok and effective, but it is costly and you can only do 1 litre at a time and have to constantly stir the pen – good for individual use.

#5 Weight

No need to carry too much! You need a sleeping system, belt kit and two sets of clothing…but consider extras depending on where you’re going!

If you’re in need of a jungle expedition or some tailormade planning then take a look at our main website and get in touch! Nomad do a good jungle kit list for you to get some ideas from as well.

That’s right, the spring and summer butterflies brightening up the days! Now, there is always a lot of doom and gloom about species being in decline….but sadly it’s true, and we have to face facts to fix it. Luckily our bright little butterflies have a helping hand in the UK with Butterfly Conservation; a charity presided over by the great man himself, Sir David Attenborough.

Butterfly Conservation has saved our lovely ‘Large Blue’ after it was made extinct in 1979 – it has been successfully re-introduced and numbers are growing – hurrah!

But why bother I hear you ask – everybody loves the big mammals its true, and yes, everything possible should be done to conserve say the Snow Leopard and the Orangutan…but let us not forget the tiny beings amongst us who are actually an indicator of ecosystem health. To put it plainly, declining butterfly numbers indicates the health of the environment we’re living in is also declining: action needs to be taken to bring it back into shape ready for our children and grandchildren to head out into it.

‘Peacock’ – Jim Asher, Butterfly Conservation

But what of the moths? These little beasties come out at night and are generally less pretty and less cared about by people, even though they can be MORE important than butterflies by providing a food source for birds, other wildlife, and as pollinators. So moths certainly need a helping hand as well…

Step forward eco-warrior Izzy at Sky2Sea International! As an Environmental Biologist she gets to help her eco-buddies save the planet when she gets some time away from helping plan exciting expeditions for you! Izzy spent a few days with Butterfly Conservation in Dorset, helping survey ‘Dingy Mocha’ larvae (that’s a very rare UK moth species by the way, and UKBAP Priority species) and survey areas of land ready for conservation.

‘Dingy Mocha’ – Butterfly Conservation

“Dingy Mocha larvae live in sallow trees, so to find them we needed a big sheet underneath a suitable tree, then by beating the tree (causing no damage!) we could catch all the caterpillars and see if we’d managed to get some ‘Dingy Mochas’. We didn’t find any on the sites we searched in, but might have better luck next time. During the separate habitat classification survey, patches of land already recognised as significant for the wildlife there had species of plants and trees recorded. This will lead to increased protection for these important sites.” Izzy Jones

‘Holly Blue’ – Jim Asher, Butterfly Conservation

This work is so vital, we have already lost 5 of the 60 resident species in the UK and two thirds are in decline. In a world dominated by commerce and consumerism it is often difficult to see the significance of such small members of our ecosystem that we all have to share – however, surely looking at the bigger picture it is important to send our children and future generations off into a world still possessing summer days with butterflies fluttering…but please don’t forget the moths as they’re very cool and important too!

Butterfly Conservation really really relies on volunteers to help out – Izzy will continue to help when she can, but they could do with a lot more people taking an active role, even if it’s only a small one…as Tesco says “every little helps!”

For more information and ideas about how YOU can get involved…check out the Butterfly Conservation’s website www.butterfly-conservation.org and you can download more info on ‘Dingy Mochas’ here! (http://www.butterfly-conservation.org/uploads/dingy_mocha.pdf)

‘Large White’ – Jim Asher, Butterfly Conservation

‘Responsible Travel’ also means ‘Should I be there in the first place!’

Let’s look at some examples shall we.

WAR ZONES

There are travel operators now offering trips to Afghanistan and Iraq.  When we take our clients into remote and distant lands our risk assessments are huge and we don’t even have to take into account fear of kidnapping, explosive devices, gunshot wounds, etc.

Here is a short snippet from the British Foreign Office website on both Iraq and Afghanistan -

No part of Afghanistan should be considered immune from violence and the potential exists throughout the country for hostile acts. Visitors travelling to Afghanistan do so at their own risk and without protection from HMG.

Although there has been a decrease in the level of violence throughout Iraq the situation remains highly dangerous with a continuing high threat of terrorism throughout the country. This includes violence and kidnapping targeting foreign nationals.

THE WEATHER

After the above section, one titled ‘the weather’ might sound tame…. but ignore the local weather at your peril.

• extreme cold – hypothermia and frostbite
• snow – avalanches and blizzards
• extreme heat – dehydration, heat stroke and sun burn
• rain – flash floods
• winds – hurricanes/typhoons

All the above can happen on their own or in devastating combinations.

Even in today’s rapidly changing climate weather patterns are still fairly predictable and risk assessments can be made accordingly.

DISEASE

Unfortunately, most places people want to go exploring are also home to a lot of dangerous germs, bacteria and diseases.  Luckily for us though most of these conditions are known and can be vaccinated against or at least preventative measures taken.

However, it is up to the individual to know the risks and take the necessary steps towards protection.  No one will drag you to a clinic for the injections, force anti-malaria pills down your neck or set up a mosquito net at night!

But no matter how successful medical science is at keeping you safe there are simply places, during outbreaks, you don’t go to.  If the World Health Organisation says “Please do not jump of a motorway bridge” people would listen, so why not when they say don’t go to an area due to a cholera outbreak, for example?

A quick summary

It is a free world, you can go anywhere at any time and do what you want! But what about the people who are sent into a situation to try to save you when you are injured by a gunshot/avalanche/cholera – where would they prefer to be right then? What about the cost of saving you, couldn’t that be better spent?

Adventure is risky enough without ignorance being added to the equation! So please remember – Responsible Travel.